Blyderivier Poort (R532)

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Molatse Canyon Molatse Canyon - Photo: Hougaard Malan

Take a 23 km drive along the rim of South Africa's most spectacular canyon - The Blyderivier Poort or nowadays known as the Molatse Canyon - and marvel at the scenic wonders the poort has on offer - like the Three Rondavels, God's Window, the Pinnacle and Bourke's Luck Potholes. The road (R532) connects the northern towns accessible from the R36 (Hoedspruit, Burgersfort and Orighstad) with the southern towns of Graskop and Sabie. There is a significant altitude gain of 480 vertical metres, but due to the length of the pass, the average gradient is a mild 1:47. The steepest gradient you will experience is on the northern sector, where it gets to 1:14.

[Video cover pic by well-known South African landscape photograpger - Hougaard Malan]

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Digging into the details

Getting there
: The northern approach to the pass can be done from either Hoedspruit or Tzaneen via the R36 and the Abel Erasmus Pass, where you must turn left (east) onto the R532 at GPS S24.565439  E30.633037. Continue heading east for 11 km past three settlements in the river valley to your left - Mapareng, Malaeneng and Mohlatsengwane to arrive at the northern start of the Blyderivier Poort Pass. The whole route along this escarpment is known as the Panorama Route - an justifiably so. Expect lots of tourist traffic here - especially busses, as visitors from overseas flock to see the marvels of the Lowveld - or as some tourist outfits market it as - the Slowveld. All along the route there are roadside craft sellers trying to eke a living out of the tourist trade.

The first 7 km is also the steepest part of the pass (at 1:14) where the road meanders along the southern lip of one of the main arms of the canyon. The road loops through a 120 degree turn at the 7 km mark, which is also a well known look-out point. From here the views are down over the Blyderivierpoort Dam and into the hazy distance of sheer cliffs and green mountain slopes. On the far side (north-east) of the river the gruelling, multi-day Blyderivierspoort Hiking Trail follows the contours along the valley floor.

Crocodile warning signView from the level of the dam from the hiking trail and the crocodile warning sign / Photo - 93RyanBFrom here the size and scope of the canyon be appreciated.
The Blyde River Canyon forms the northern part of the Drakensberg escarpment. It is 25 kilometres in length and is, on average, around 750 metres deep. The canyon consists mostly of red sandstone. The highest point of the canyon, Mariepskop, [see our entry on the Mariepskop Pass] is 1,944 metres above sea level, whilst its lowest point where the river leaves the canyon is slightly less than 561 metres above sea level. This means that by some measure the Canyon is 1,383 metres deep. Whilst it is difficult to compare canyons world-wide, Blyde River Canyon is one of the largest canyons on earth, and it may be the largest 'green canyon' due to its lush subtropical foliage. It has some of the deepest precipitous cliffs of any canyon on the planet. It is the second largest canyon in Africa, after the Fish River Canyon, and is known as one of the great wonders of nature on the continent. [Source: Wikipedia]


The canyon provides tourists with jaw-dropping views and local populations with a form of tourism livelihood. From this main route, there are several smaller roads leading off to different attractions and viewpoints - far too many to cover within the scope of this page. Allow a lot more time for these detours than indicated in our Fact File below. If you're a first time visitor to the Blyderivier Poort, we recommend a full day to fully explore all that the canyon has to offer. If you can spend two days with an overnight stop at one of the lodges or B&B's, then even better.

From the 7 km look-out point the road descends slightly for the next 4,5 km past an airstrip and golf course at the Blydepoort Holiday Resort,  to cross the Kadisi River feeding into the canyon. The road then rises again at a gentle gradient for 1,5 km where there is a well marked road leading off to the left (north) which leads to a look-out point known as the Three Rondavels, which are amongst the most photographed natural objects in Mpumalanga. This little deour is only 3 km long (each way) and is a mandatory stopping point for all visitorrs. The scope for photography from the view-site is world class. You can look back to yor left up a side-ravine and see the waterfall tumbling down the lip of the escarpment from the lush grounds of the Blydepoort Holiday Resort.


The hiking trail crosses the river hundreds of metres below and winds its way laboriously up the crags, right past the waterfall, then follows the western ridge of the escarpment heading southwards towards Bourkes Luck Potholes and beyond. This hiking trail is only for fit people.

View from God's WindowView from God's Window / Photo = Southbee Tours


  The road ascends gently, faithflly following the lip of the Drakensberg Escarpment, to reach the summit point of 1379m ASL at the 19,2 km mark.  The pass ends a little further, after a small descent, at the 22,9 km point at an altitude of 1313m. Although the pass ends here, the Panorama Route continues and within 5 km you will arrive at the Treurrivier (River of Sorrow) [see the history section below on how this river got its name] where you can explore the stunning Bourkes Luck Potholes. Here in this wind and water worn mini-canyon with its contorted and twisted rock formations, gold was prospected in the late 1800's. Watch your footing on these rocks as it's easy to slip and take a tumble. There is a lovely footbridge giiving access to botth sides of the river.

Gold in the waterBourke's Luck Potholes can be seen at the southern end of the canyon / Photo: CedarbergTravel.comTwo more hiking trails start from this point - The Geelhoutbos and Protea Hiking Trails which are multiple day hikes reaching deep into the heart of the Molatse Canyon Nature Reserve. A little further you can see the Little Chum Falls and the Trichardt Potgieter memorial on the left just after the third of the three successive bridges on the R543. If you are one of the super-fit and plan on doing the main hiking trail which parallels the road, but at a lower level in the canyon, there is an extension which takes you east to Erasmuskop and the gravesite of Oswald Pirow which dates back to 1959.

It is another 43 km drive through lovely scenery before you reach the town of Graskop, where you can enjoy a zipslide, hikes, mountain bike trails or visit the nearby old gold mining hamlet of Pilgrims Rest for a time trip into yesteryear. The best time to visit is out of season.

History:
In 1843 Andries Potgieter - who had just founded Potchefstroom and on the advice of Louis Trichard - took a more southerly route to explore the unknown north-eastern land, which turned out to be virtually impossible - let alone arduous!! After negotiating what is known as Casper's Nek Pass (named after Paul Kruger's father who pioneered this oldest existing road in the region still in use), the party reached the edge of the Drakensberg Escarpment down which there was no possible descent at that point, or - by line of sight - for 50km in any direction. Leaving the women and children and a few men outspanned on the banks of the river just below the top of the escarpment - with strict instructions that the waiting group return to Potchefstroom if the scouting group had not returned by a date two months into the future - the men went in search of a way down to the Lowveld 1000m below. This is the river we cross today on the R543 at Bourke's Luck Potholes.

Hippos in the Blyderivier near the hiking trailDanger! Hippos in the river / Photo - Angello ArgirovAccess to the Lowveld was discovered to be via an animal track on a land under the control of a local chief named Koveni - hence the Afrikaans translation Kowyn - and onto Delagoa Bay where, for various reasons, the men were delayed. [See Kowyns Pass] The waiting party, after staying a fortnight longer than instructed, left the river on who's banks they had been anxiously waiting, and named it "Treurrivier" (River of Sorrow).

A few days later the returning men caught up with their womenfolk on the banks of another river, which was promptly named the "Blyderivier" (River of Joy). In the year 1850 the farm GRASKOP - so named because of the vast tracts of grassveld and singular lack of trees in the area - was owned by one Abel Erasmus who in later years was to become "native commissioner and magistrate" for the entire Lowveld and escarpment region and had a local pass named after him - the Abel Erasmus Pass. The local, indigenous people gave this redoubtable hunter the name "Dubula Duzi", in recognition of the fact that he waited till the very last moment before firing on his quarry. [Info courtesy of graskop.co.za]

Molatse CanyonThe 3 Rondavels towering over the River of Joy (Blyderivier) / Photo WikimediaCommons


Fact File:

GPS START  S24.545841 E30.722033
GPS SUMMIT S24.617251 E30.819128
GPS END  S24.641389 E30.816543
AVE GRADIENT 1:47
MAX GRADIENT 1:14
ELEVATION START 899m
ELEVATION SUMMIT 1379m
ELEVATION END 1314m
HEIGHT GAIN/LOSS 480m
DISTANCE 22,9 km
DIRECTION - TRAVEL South
TIME REQUIRED 18 minutes
SPEED LIMIT 80 kph
SURFACE Tar (R532)
DATE FILMED 07.08.2015
TEMPERATURE 22C
NEAREST TOWN Graskop (43 km)

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Mountain Passes South Africa

Mountain Passes South Africa is a website dedicated to the research, documentation, photographing and filming of the mountain passes of South Africa.
 

Passes are classified according to provinces and feature a text description, Fact File including GPS data, a fully interactive dual-view map and a narrated YouTube video.
 

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